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The Trapezitsa Hill in Veliko Tarnovo preserves the spirit of medieval Bulgaria

Trapezitsa Hill in Veliko Tarnovo
Photo: museumvt.com

Trapezitsa is one of the three hills for which the old Bulgarian capital, Tarnovgrad (the medieval name of today’s Veliko Tarnovo), is famous. Located to the northwest of the town, it stands across from the neighboring hill Tsarevets – the site where, during the Middle Ages, the royal palace and the Patriarchate rose.

Trapezitsa Hill is known for being a fortified residential district of the Bulgarian capital during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185–1396). The area is naturally protected on three sides by the winding curves of the Yantra River. The hill had strong fortress walls following its contours. The walls were about 8 meters high, and the watchtowers reached up to 12 meters. Until recently, it was believed that only noble boyars lived on Trapezitsa. However, detailed research by a branch of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences’ Archaeological Institute has proven that the district housed not only aristocrats with lavish homes and high-ranking clergy, but also ordinary citizens. It is believed that during the Middle Ages several thousand people lived on the hill.


“If the opposite hill, Tsarevets, has a pyramidal shape, then Trapezitsa resembles a ‘trapeza’ or a broad flat plateau. Some historians suggest that the name may be connected to the ‘trapezites’ – warriors who guarded the mountain passes in the Middle Ages,” says Svetlana Petkova, a tour guide at the Historical Museum in Veliko Tarnovo.

Svetlana Petkova, tour guide at Veliko Tarnovo Historical Museum
"Trapezitsa is the second most important hill. Tsarevets is the main one, where the royal palace was located and from where the state was governed. Later, in 1235 under Tsar Ivan Asen II, the patriarchal palace was built at its highest point. In 1195, Tsar Asen brought the relics of Saint Ivan Rilski (St. John of Rila) from Sredets (modern-day Sofia). Our rulers were deeply religious, and during the Second Bulgarian Kingdom, there was an extraordinary concentration of holy relics here. Relics of many saints were brought in. The church dedicated to St. John of Rila was initially a single-nave structure but was later expanded into an entire monastery complex. The saint's relics remained there until 1469, when they were returned to the Rila Monastery. Remains of churches from the Second Bulgarian Kingdom are preserved on Trapezitsa Hill. Excavations continue in the western part of the hill – in the past, residents used this route to reach the Yantra River and supply the fortress with water."

The churches on Trapezitsa were known for their rich architectural decoration – frescoes, colorful mosaics, and ceramic ornaments. The largest is Church No. 8, known as the church to Saint Ivan Rilski. It underwent five construction phases and was expanded after 1195 when Tsar Asen I transferred the saint’s relics to the then Bulgarian capital Tarnovo. Its southern room is believed to have been a reliquary. Before that, until around 1170, a military unit led by a Byzantine commander was stationed on the hill. Scholars believe that Trapezitsa started to have civilian population only in the 13th century, during the reign of Ivan Asen II, once peace with Byzantium had been established. “That’s when the boyars arrived, many artisan workshops appeared, and numerous boyar churches were built,” Svetlana Petkova explains, and continues:


“If Tsarevets covers about 120 decares, Trapezitsa is around 80. The population was proportionally similar, although it varied over time. In general, including its suburbs that supplied the fortified castles with food, the medieval capital Tarnovgrad had about 20,000 inhabitants. For comparison, Constantinople at that time had around 40,000–45,000 people. By European standards, Tarnovo was a mid-sized city.”

As an important spiritual center, "the glorious city of Trapezitsa with its churches and monasteries" is mentioned in medieval and Byzantine hagiographies of Saint Ivan Rilski. The first archaeological explorations of the city fortress are linked to the dawn of Bulgarian archaeology. They began in 1879 and were carried out by Bulgaria’s first archaeological society – the Tarnovo Archeological Society. As early as the beginning of the 20th century, initial excavations revealed key structures – the fortress walls, remains of churches, and six gates leading into the fortified hill.


During archaeological excavations in the 1990s, 21 churches were discovered on the hill. Some of them were boyar tombs, while others belonged to monastic complexes. Worship continued in several churches until the mid-17th century, after which they were permanently abandoned – likely due to aging and the shifting of the city westward.


Today, the Trapezitsa Architectural and Museum Reserve attracts numerous tourists. Visitors are transported up the historic hill by a funicular. There is also a heritage presentation center displaying finds from archaeological research – from prehistory and the Thracian period (some of the hill’s earliest inhabitants) to the Middle Ages, when Trapezitsa was part of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom’s capital. 

Interestingly, under a project funded by the Heydar Aliyev Foundation and supported by the Azerbaijani government, €1.2 million was invested in restoration. 400 meters of the western fortress wall and three churches with preserved frescoes have been restored. 

“Despite the many studies, the hill still holds unexplored secrets, and ongoing archaeological work continues to reveal previously unknown facts,” says tour guide Svetlana Petkova in an interview with Radio Bulgaria.


Read also:


English version: R. Petkova


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